Did you know that when it comes to setting up your print files for a saddle stitch book vs a perfect bound (or coil/wire-o) book, that there’s different ways you should go about it?
Saddle Stitch
For saddle stitch books, you can build your file as 2 page reader spreads (sequential page order), with bleeds extended when applicable at the head, foot and face.
But you’ll want to make sure your page count is in multiples of four, as saddle stitch books are put together as 4 page spreads and are imposed as signatures of 4, 8, 12, or 16 pages (or some combination of these).
We can even fold a 32pp form on a half size book (5.5 x 8.5) if it’s on a thinner stock, like 50# opaque text.
Perfect Bound
For perfect bound (or coil/wire-o) books, files should be built as single pages, with bleeds extended on all sides (if applicable). This is because of how the book is put together when it hits the bindery. If a perfect bound book is printed via offset press, signatures are folded and gathered into book blocks. The spine is then notched in the grind off process, so you’ll want to make sure your bleeds extend far enough in so it extends into the binding. For digitally printed perfect bound books, or wire-o/coil, book blocks are cut to 1-up before being glued or punched. As long as your bleeds extend far enough, there won’t be an issue with any white showing when the blocks are trimmed (especially on wire-o/coil where you’ll see the edge of the page through the binding. For more of the nitty gritty on perfect binding, check out last month’s post HERE.
You’ll also want to allow for the glue trap on perfect bound books, and the punch for coil/wire-o books. So it’s a good idea to increase your gutter margins by at least an additional 1/4″ so important copy doesn’t get punched through or doesn’t end up in the glue trap.
For any questions on how to set up files for print, please reach out to our team. We’ll be happy to help!
Photo by Luke Porter on Unsplash